Big Game Trolling for Yellowfin Tuna
Before the water gets too warm and the chunking bite really turns on, trolling up yellowfin tuna on standup gear is the go to method for putting together a solid trip. The bite begins off of North Carolina and slowly gravitates northward into the northeast canyons off of New Jersey during the beginning of summer. The fishing can be hit or miss at this point of the season, but if you are able to get on them on the troll you are usually rewarded with multiple hookups at a time.
An ideal rod and reel setup starts with a reel similar to a Talica 25II from Shimano for trolling ballyhoo, while a 30W or 50W Shimano Tiagra, Penn International, or Avet EXW is best for pulling spreader bars. For your ballyhoo setups, a standup rod in the 5' 6" – 6' range with all open ring guides, roller tip and stripper with open guides, or an all roller rod capable of handling up to 80lb braid. A similar rod can be used with the heavier setups designated for pulling spreader and splash bars, however usually slightly heavier to compensate for the added weight being trolled. With the latest advancements in Spectra line, most anglers are leaning towards a rod with all open guides, which is not only braid friendly but also lightens up the rod significantly so the rod actually wears out the fish rather than the angler. Due to braided lines decreased line diameter compared to monofilament of the same breaking strength, 600 - 800 yards of 60-80lb solid or hollow core braid backing with a 50 to 150 yard Momoi Diamond or Jinkai monofilament topshot is the ideal line pairing when gearing up on the troll with most reels.
The simplest way to rig up would be to attach a snap swivel at the end of your monofilament topshot via a crimp, loop created by a bimini twist, or a simple clinch knot. If you are using rods with enough clearance to pass a small Spro Power Swivel through the guides, utilizing a crank-on monofilament or fluorocarbon wind on leader system is a great way to increase the length of your leader and add a stealthy element to your spread. Using an extra long leader without an experienced wireman is not ideal, so the crank on system allows the angler on the rod to wind the leader right on to the reel until the fish is within gaff range.
For your ballyhoo trolling setups it is best to go with a long 60-130lb Seaguar or Yo-Zuri fluorocarbon leader is ideal to add more abrasion resistance and adds even more stealth to your presentation. Usually best to start off with around 100lb leader and move down if you are not getting bit. Sometimes it is necessary to drop all the way down to 60lb or less off of your long riggers if yellowfin are being extremely line shy. For your setups designated for pulling spreader bars, stick to a short leader of 150lb or slightly more since it will be out of the water anyway and stinger will be well away from your connection. While ballyhoo and spreader bars are the staples for targeting yellowfin on the troll, cedar plugs, feathers, and green machines can also be extremely productive.
A typical spread will include 7 to 13 rods, depending on the spacing available on your boat. On a center console a 7-9 rod spread is ideal, with 2 rods set up for pulling ballyhoo off of your long rigger positions, spreader bars on both short riggers, a daisy chain, green machine, or spreader bar off of the shotgun, 2 flat lines with either cedar plugs, lipped diving plugs, or ballyhoo. On a larger sportfish boat you will be able to supplement your spread with the extra beam and spacing so you can fit in another few bars, chains, or ballyhoo setups.
Once you hook up, KEEP THE BOAT IN GEAR for at least 30 seconds!!! It may be difficult to not overreact and back off the throttles when a single yellowfin is burning through one of your reels on a slow day, but keeping the boat in gear for as long as you can increases the potential for multiple hookups and a quicker limit of fish.